DISTILLERY VISIT
A taste of tradition in Falkirk
Instead of sailing into retirement, 76-year-old George Stewart instead finds himself as co-founder of Falkirk Distillery Company, alongside his daughter Fiona. George battled with the logistics of building his very own distillery from scratch for over a decade, which wasn’t helped by the presence of a certain Roman wall only a stone’s throw from the site. Duncan Gorman visited the new distillery to chat with Fiona and George for the Society’s Whisky Talk podcast. Enjoy these excerpts or tune in to Whisky Talk for the full episode
PHOTOS: MIKE WILKINSON
FAMILY FIRST
ABOVE: Fiona in the dunnage warehouse
The family venture has seen the father and daughter build the distillery from scratch, and with George being a successful local businessman, is almost entirely self-funded.
“It’s not just unique. I think it’s remarkable,” says Fiona. The project has always been directed by the family and their values, Fiona continues. “All the businesses that my father’s been involved in, it’s all about family. My dad is now employing the grandchildren from the first round of people that worked for him. To me, whisky distillation should be about family. That’s what it was back in the day so we were trying to kind of instil that within what we do. We’ve got a very small team, but everybody cares about what they’re doing. They care about us, and we care about them, so there are good values there.”
However it’s not always been plain sailing for Fiona and her dad, having sunk countless hours and finances into the distillery trying to get it up and running.
“With it being a family venture, there’s obviously the vagaries of upsets of two family members working together. My mother has also found it very taxing watching the two of us, particularly my dad, working seven days a week building this. So, all in all, it’s been taxing emotionally and also financially, because it’s no mean venture building a distillery...”
FRESH TALENT
Accompanying the Stewart family as they find their feet in the industry is 22-year-old assistant distillery manager Rebecca Kean. Rebecca first set foot in the distillery as a chemical engineering student on work experience, but after finding a love for the industry and impressing Fiona, she found herself extending her stay.
“I first came here for two weeks of work experience in 2021 but 12 weeks later I was still here. As soon as I came here, I fell in love, after my first week it felt like I belonged here,” says Rebecca. Fiona believes that Rebecca is a huge asset to the distillery with a bright future in the industry as an aspiring young woman. “George and Fiona then asked me back and offered me the position as assistant distillery manager. They’re also now putting me through my diploma in distilling, I’m doing my first module at the moment,” Rebecca continues.
“I have been trying to connect with more women in the industry. I think it’s important that we help empower each other and break down the stigma that whisky is a male industry. And not just women either, I think it’s important that people from all walks of life are encouraged in the industry.”
“So it is a brand new distillery, but the characteristics of the traditional distillery have been incorporated as much as we possibly can. There are not many distilleries, I have to say, that have this grandeur that we have.”
RESPECT FOR THE PAST
ABOVE: reconditioned stills from Caperdonich distillery
The Stewart family also happened to stumble across somewhat of a unique problem when building the distillery. The team were set back four years when the acceptance of their planning permission was complicated by the presence of the Antonine Wall, a World Heritage Site just a stone’s throw from the distillery. The wall was built over a 12-year period from 142AD between the Firth of Clyde in the west and the Firth of Forth in the east, marking the most northernly point of Roman occupation in the UK. “Financially it was quite a setback as well as the four years to get planning,” says George. “And I think, to be honest now, some of the people who were against it, actually even Historic Scotland now, they’ve said it’s an asset and it’s turned out good. It looks the part and I think it adds to the history in the town as well.”
Falkirk Distillery only started producing new make spirit in 2021, but at a glance you could believe it has been embedded in the Lowland town for much longer.
This is no coincidence, with the father and daughter co-founders having made sure to pay homage to the traditional heritage of the industry through the distillery’s architecture.
Stray just a few moments from the M9 motorway between Glasgow and Edinburgh and you will be met with a grand whitewashed building, complete with twin copper pagodas. If by chance passers-by are left with any doubts over what might take place inside this impressive complex, “Falkirk Distillery Company” is labelled across the front of the building in large black letters, leaving no room for mistake.
“We’ve got the two pagodas which were built in our engineering business, but obviously they don’t really serve us a purpose apart from being excessively pleasing,” says Fiona. “That’s paying homage to the old maltings back in the day. So it is a brand new distillery, but the characteristics of the traditional distillery have been incorporated as much as we possibly can. There are not many distilleries, I have to say, that have this grandeur that we have.”
DUNNAGE DESIGN
The family also opted to build traditional dunnage warehouses on site, for reasons that exceeded surface looks, as Fiona explains. “With the traditional brick, it helps with the ventilation, which is incredibly important. And it gives you a much more even maturation process. So it’s not just in terms of heritage, but it’s also about the quality of spirit that we’re thinking about as well.”
The storage units are currently filled 90 per cent with bourbon barrels and 10 per cent in sherry casks. The warehouses took over six months for local masons to craft, which George says is well worth the extra effort.
“We’re trying to keep as much heritage as possible while giving it a feel-good factor for people who when they come here, recognise it as a distillery rather than just new buildings,” he says. “If a man who died 100 years ago came back here today and looked at that bonded warehouse, he would think it was built then. So that’s what we’ve done, we’ve kept all the heritage here and it’s all done with traditional brick.
“Everything was handmade compared to a sheet of cladding, which you can put up in five minutes. You could have the building built within about three or four weeks, but it took us about five months to build a traditional building.”
ABOVE: casks in the dunnage warehouse
“Everything was handmade. You could have the building built within about three or four weeks, but it took us about five months to build a traditional building.”
STILLS WITH A STORY
But it isn’t just looks where Falkirk distillery tips its hat to the industry’s heritage.
Within the brand-new walls lies the distillery’s beating heart, steeped in history. Two 58-year-old stills from the silent Caperdonich distillery, purchased from the renowned still makers Forsyths of Rothes in Speyside, who had bought and salvaged the distillery and its equipment.
Accompanying the stills from Caperdonich is an impressively large 4.5 tonne traditional copper mash tun. So large in fact that the distillery roof couldn’t be fitted until the hefty tun was nestled inside its walls.
An old Diageo spirit safe and brand-new 34,000-litre washbacks complete the set, producing new make spirit, which is sweet, floral and herbal on the nose with flavours of sweet pears, mild spice and sweet hazelnut upon tasting.
Now up and running, Falkirk distillery is well into the swing of things with possible scope for a first bottling coming up later on in 2023. With works for a visitors centre and a restaurant both well underway, it won’t be long before you can nip off the M9 yourself and pay a visit to try out the full experience for yourself.