SMWS MEMBER PROFILE
An Islay adventure
After 22 hours on a plane, a missed connection, seven hours of tense driving down narrow roads and an unexpected ferry cancellation, SMWS member Jay Baris and his son Ben learned that visiting Islay from New York demands both patience and ingenuity. Yet, the question looms: was it worth it? According to Jay, the answer is a resounding yes!
WORDS AND IMAGES: JAY BARIS
Our father-and-son trip to Islay was years in the making, a shared dream to bond over whisky. Despite tight schedules, we managed to carve out six days in late November for this adventure. Our ambitious mission: to visit all nine of Islay’s storied distilleries in one visit.
Spoiler alert: we did it. We visited every distillery, discovering some of Scotland’s most exquisite whiskies. The journey led us across peat bogs and historical sites, enriched by sampling the local culinary delights, and, of course, the pubs.
Getting to and from Islay can be an odyssey filled with hurdles. Any misstep in planning had the potential to derail our whisky-centric itinerary, and opportunities for delays were abundant.
Islay, nestled as the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides, is accessible only by air or by boat. Considering the unpredictable weather, we opted for the ferry over flying into the tiny airport.
THE BEST LAID PLANS…
Our journey ran into trouble from the outset, when our delayed flight from New York caused a missed connection in Amsterdam on the way to Glasgow. That in turn meant we missed the last ferry from Kennacraig, so we spent a night in the charming seaside town of Tarbert. The next morning, we faced our next challenge: the ferry had space for us but not our car, so we parked our rental car in the ferry lot and rented a second car on Islay.
Once on the ferry, our anxieties eased. We enjoyed a hearty Scottish breakfast while admiring the sunrise over the mainland hills. Approaching Islay, the iconic distilleries of Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig welcomed us in the morning light.
In Port Ellen, we dove into our distillery tour plans. Balancing tour schedules, weather and transportation was a complex puzzle. Distillery visits ranged from in-depth tours to quick tastings, each offering a unique glimpse into whisky production.
ABOVE: You can't beat a CalMac fry up on the ferry to Islay, especially with a series of whisky tastings ahead...
NAVIGATING ISLAY'S WHISKY LANDSCAPE
Islay’s strict no drinking and driving policy meant adapting our approach. At each distillery, ‘driver’s drams’ – takeaway sample sets – were a thoughtful solution. (This policy did not inhibit Ben’s visits, as I was the designated driver). Our visits included an immersive tour at Lagavulin, followed by shorter stops at Ardbeg and Laphroaig.
On the second day, we enlisted the help of Jaqs MacDougall, a local guide and driver. Her expertise in navigating Islay’s rugged terrain was invaluable, leading us through peat bogs and past historical sites. We explored Bowmore, then visited the trio of Bunnahabhain, Ardnahoe and Caol Ila on the east side of the island. From there, you look out over the Sound of Islay and can practically touch the Isle of Jura, with the three distinctive hills called the Paps sculpting its landscape. From there, we crisscrossed the island to visit Kilchoman and Bruichladdich.
On the third day, we signed up for the warehouse tour at Bruichladdich, sampling whisky drawn directly from casks, using a copper ‘whisky thief’. Halfway back to Port Ellen, we stumbled on a livestock auction, where we watched live auctions of heifers and sheep, some of which, I am sure, joined us on the ferry to the mainland the following day.
THE ESSENCE OF ISLAY'S HOSPITALITY
Islay’s dining scene is a testament to its community and pride. A memorable meal in Port Ellen, with ‘non-local’ seafood from Inverness, humorously illustrated the islanders’ strict definition of local food.
Our visit concluded on a Saturday morning. We booked the earliest ferry out of Port Ellen to Kennacraig, allowing plenty of time for a side trip to Campbeltown, a short detour on the mainland to the south, to visit Springbank and Glen Scotia, two favourite distilleries. We checked out of the inn and returned the rental car, leaving it, as instructed, parked on the street with the key left in the visor.
We headed to the ferry terminal, just steps from our hotel, but alas, it was not to be. Our Ferry Godmother did not cooperate. The early ferry was cancelled, and no one had told us.
The reason didn’t matter. Thanks to a resourceful ticket agent, we managed to catch an alternate ferry from Askaig on the other side of the island, narrowly avoiding a missed flight from Glasgow.
ABOVE: Jay and his son Ben with the Paps of Jura in the distance
HERE'S TO THE NEXT TRIP
Echoing William Faulkner’s words: “There is no such thing as bad whiskey. Some whiskeys just happen to be better than others,” we cherished the diversity of Islay’s whiskies. (Note: Faulkner drank ‘whiskey’. Here, we drank ‘whisky’, spelled without the ‘e’). We returned with rare bottles exclusive to the distilleries, carrying memories of the island’s charm and warmth.
We’re already planning a return trip, perhaps extending our journey to Jura, Campbeltown or the Isle of Skye. Next time, we’ll allocate more time to savour each moment.
ISLAY CHALLENGES
Despite its tranquil setting, Islay’s whisky industry is dynamic. Eight of the nine distilleries (plus the reinvented Port Ellen distillery) are owned by global companies, with only Kilchoman and Ardnahoe remaining family owned.
Challenges like sourcing malted barley, especially with changes at Port Ellen Maltings, and the island’s fragile transportation links, particularly the ferry service, add complexity to the operations of these distilleries.
The ferry carries almost everything to Islay, from barley for the distilleries, food for restaurants and grocery stores, to tourists traveling on a tight schedule. In the other direction, the ferry transports everything – all of Islay’s whisky production, sheep and other Islay products – to the mainland.
Since 1974, Port Ellen Maltings (owned by Diageo) served as Islay’s only industrial malting facility, supplying malted barley to almost all of Islay’s distilleries. About a year ago, Port Ellen Maltings stopped supplying malted barley to non-Diageo distilleries, according to Anthony Wills, the founder and proprietor of Kilchoman, creating a supply challenge for those that had relied on the steady local supply of malted barley. “This changed the landscape,” Wills said. Now, Kilchoman – and others – must import their malted barley from elsewhere. (Kilchoman grows about 20 per cent of the barley it needs, he said, but lacks malting facilities).
Compounding this challenge, in June 2023, engine trouble sidelined one of the ferries, disrupting the service between Islay and Kennacraig. “The whole island was three days away from shutting down,” Wills said. Fortunately, “a major crisis was averted,” but the “very precarious” ferry situation was a wakeup call.
JAY'S ISLAY INSIGHTS
Plan ahead!
Getting there
You can get to Islay by air or by ferry. There are usually two flights during weekdays from Glasgow Airport. Book early, as these flights fill quickly.
It’s tempting to want to buy hard-to-find whiskies when visiting distilleries on Islay. But be forewarned: in the UK, you can only check up to five litres of spirits in your baggage. The airport authorities are known to confiscate any amount that exceeds that limit.
Arrive at Islay Airport before your latest check-in time, which is 40 minutes before the scheduled flight departure time. If you are late, the check-in staff may refuse to allow you on the flight.
CalMac provides the ferry service to Islay. There are usually five sailings per day, between Kennacraig, just south of Tarbert on the Scottish mainland, and either Port Ellen or Port Askaig on Islay.
The drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig typically takes two hours 30 minutes. Night travel, rain and road closures can add significant delays, so allow for plenty of extra time. If you are late for the ferry, they may give away your spot. Car spots on the ferry fill up quickly (as we discovered), so book well in advance. Otherwise, when traveling to Islay, you must park your car at the Kennacraig ferry terminal and board by foot. A bus runs between Kennacraig and Glasgow, but have a plan B ready in case you miss the connection.
Getting around on Islay
If you don’t bring a car or rent one on the island, book your taxi well in advance, and be prepared to pay in cash, as the credit card readers may not connect to the internet. A public bus service is available, but be prepared to walk a bit. If driving to distilleries, remember that Islay has a zero tolerance policy on drinking and driving, so consider hiring a guide and driver.
Visiting distilleries
Book ‘deep dive’ distillery tours well in advance. All the distilleries let you book online, and you pay at the time of booking. Be sure to check the cancellation policy when you book, keeping in mind that finicky ferries, delayed flights and weather can disrupt your distillery plans. If you are driving, most distilleries will offer driver’s drams to take away.
Where to stay
While some quaint bed-and-breakfasts look idyllic, they may be miles from the nearest restaurant, pub or distillery, so plan accordingly. Also, the smaller ones fill up quickly.
Where to eat
In Port Ellen check out SeaSalt Bistro for fresh seafood and other local fare. It’s friendly and reasonably priced, and they offer a broad menu, which includes pizza, among other things. For a more traditional experience, try the Islay Hotel, just down the block. For an after-dinner drink, walk over to the Ardview Inn, a traditional pub, and No. 1 Charlotte Street, both frequented by locals. In Bowmore, visit Peatzeria for Italian food and pizza.
Fèis Ìle
The last week of May, whisky fans converge on Islay for Fèis Ìle, the whisky festival. The locals will advise you to plan your week, target the most appealing events, and, most importantly, book well in advance for events, lodging, restaurants and the ferry.