LOCAL FLAVOUR
Spirit of the Spey
In the first of our Whisky Wanderers off the beaten track experiences Mads Schmoll heads to Speyside with Dufftown local and resident forager, Michelle Myron. Whisky touches everything in this landscape, whether it's stories from the past, local goings-on in the present or even its visible chemical impact on the local flora. Together, they confirm one thing – you don't even need to step inside a distillery to have a whisky experience in Speyside
PHOTOS: RODDY MACKAY
ABOVE: A brief stop for a dram near Dufftown Distillery
We’re driving to Speyside and the cows are sitting in the field. I look across to my colleague Anthony Delcros and out the window at a sky that looks considerably less blue than when we left Edinburgh. Although we’re all about the muddy boots this May, a two-hour whisky and foraging walk in the rain isn’t quite what we were hoping to offer members. By the time we get to Dufftown, it’s grey, but thankfully, dry. We head to meet our host for the afternoon, Michelle Myron.
She’s going to be our guide on a two-hour walking tour that will feature foraging, local lore, distillery history and a few Society drams along the way. Her expertise is why we’re here. “Growing up, I spent a lot of time outdoors. I loved the seasons and the changes in the flora and fauna,” says Michelle. “I always picked berries but an older family friend taught me about mushrooms and herbs.”
ABOVE: Dufftown Clock Tower
ABOVE: Ambassador Tony presents a dram for members to try
Despite growing up in the area, it wasn’t until she spent some time away that she realised how special it was. The result? Her business, Speyside Tours, which Michelle launched thirteen years ago. “Whisky has always been part of our lives, with several family members working at Benrinnes, Glenrothes and Glenfiddich,” she says. “I lived overseas for a few years, and it was only then I realised how special Speyside is, with whisky playing an integral role in its economy and how we attract tourists to the area.”
We head off from Dufftown Clock Tower with a group of explorers who travelled from across the UK, Belgium and even Sweden. It feels like we’re on an adventure to discover the secrets of the region and you can feel the anticipation as we set off. The first stop? The Old Doctor’s House. In addition to its more obvious role in history, it has another link to whisky in the form of architect Charles Doig, who designed it. Doig is best known for his creation of the Doig Ventilator, the pagoda-style chimney often seen on distilleries from this time. It was first installed at the nearby Dailuaine distillery and then at many distilleries thereafter. You can see a hint of these curves in the architecture of this home, but without knowing it, it would easily go unnoticed.
FLORA, FAUNA & FUNGA
We arrive at Michelle’s base and are greeted with a mug of hot mushroom and wild garlic soup – both ingredients foraged locally. It’s the perfect opportunity for Michelle to introduce us to her world of foraging where she gathers mushrooms, berries and other edible plants. She says: “We have lots of distilleries and their locations often mean there are lots to forage on their doorsteps. At certain distilleries I’ll find cep mushrooms, some have sloe berries, and others are great for bunches of sorrel.” Before we head out, we’re treated to a sip of her delicious apple spirit, that’s been aged just over a month (so far). It’s about 60% abv, and part of a new side project for her. She adds: “While at one distillery I noticed that in their gardens they had lots of apples, all fallen to the ground. It was this that prompted me to start Speyside Aypple, my small apple brandy distillery.”
We continue the walk from there, learning about local landmarks and the flora’s own form of seasonal placemaking. There’s the three-cornered leek which can be used like wild garlic, or the silver birch which can be tapped for sap early in the year.
ABOVE: Ambassador Tony picks chervil
ABOVE: Mushroom and wild garlic soup made from foraging finds
Though Michelle recommends using it to make wine rather than drinking it just for the sake of hydration. She brings out a sample of sap for us to try. It's slightly viscous with just a hint of sweetness – a palate cleanser for the whisky we’re about to enjoy, perhaps?
As we head up the path, we’re not far from our next stop. As my ears tune into the medley of birdsong I’m amazed by the surrounding trees. Healthy and tall, their trunks are dark black. Michelle tells us it’s baudoinia compniacensis, a harmless whisky fungus that coats trees and buildings and feeds on the ethanol that casks release as they mature. You’ll find it near most distilleries, but only if they store casks.
“The more you forage the more you’re able to identify,” she says pointing out garlic mustard and chervil while highlighting where elderflower will grow in the coming weeks. It’s important to take care when identifying wild flora – Michelle explains chervil can be easily confused for hemlock, which is quite different and very poisonous. Despite this, her number one piece of advice for keen foragers is still: “Don't be scared!”
She continues: “There are various online groups now and many are specific to geographic areas. They are helpful in that you can post photos, and they will help identify. These apps that say they can identify plants or mushrooms are a bit hit and miss. Honestly, the more you explore, the better you get!”
ABOVE: Members and non-members enjoy a 32-year-old sherry cask-matured dram in the heart of Speyside
PICTURED: Whisky wanderers getting off the beaten track in Speyside
ABOVE: A welcome stop for the first Society dram, Cask No. 91.32: Refill thrill
ABOVE: Wandering Alchemy
ABOVE: Cask No.1.292: Rhythms of the soul
ABOVE: Cask No. 76.150: Glory be to the patisserie
WHISKY WANDERERS
At the now defunct Pittyvaich distillery, there’s another magical moment, when one of our members mentioned that he was a part of its build. What are the odds? We arrive at Dufftown Distillery, which is currently in its silent season. Away from the birdsong, we dive into Cask No. 91.32: Refill thrill, a 12-year-old matured in a second fill bourbon barrel. For those unfamiliar with the Society, it’s a great introduction to our whisky with lots of smooth, creamy and rich flavours – and in a very unique location too!
It's not long before we’re on the trail again and walk past Mr Grant’s old house, the home of William Grant who started the family-owned Glenfiddich. Here it’s a double treat. We enjoy a dram of Cask No.1.292: Rhythms of the soul and a portion of warm and gooey sticky toffee pudding. We also hear about John Connon, the former distillery manager at Mortlach who purchased the house from the distillery when he retired. We listen, savouring the dram which is also from his favourite distillery. This moment is part history, part whisky tasting, littered with bite-size anecdotes that bring the landscape of Speyside to life.
ABOVE: Homemade shortbread and a dram at Mortlach
ABOVE: Michelle talks about the importance of plant identification
Spurred on by the promise of more treats, we head past a former distillery football pitch, now home to some local ponies. We’re en route to our next distillery, known as the beast of Dufftown and famous for its use of worm tub condensers – the one and only Mortlach. Here it’s a sip of Cask No. 76.150: Glory be to the patisserie which is paired with Michelle’s mum’s shortbread recipe. The buttery biscuit is the perfect treat to go alongside this beautiful 32-year-old sherry cask-matured dram.
Begrudgingly, it’s time to head back to base, but not before a final send-off with our global festival release, Wandering Alchemy. This final dram is a maverick liquid – a small batch blended malt which features ingredients from all five Scotch whisky regions. It’s also evocative, having surprised the Tasting Panel with its old-school blend character. As we toast our adventures, it seems a most fitting homage to embrace the legacy of this region’s incredible malts in a new way, exploring the path less trodden and getting off the beaten track.
Find out more about Speyside Tours at: http://www.speysidetours.co.uk/
PICTURED: Heading towards Mortlach Distillery